Substitute black beans or any other bean for pinto beans. Look for epazote, cotija cheese and chiles in a specialty Mexican market.

Makes 6 servings

Ingredients

• Salt
• Water
• 3 dried chipotle morita chiles, or 2 chipotle meco chiles
• 2 onions, chopped
• 2 cloves garlic
• 1 large spring epazote, optional
• Black pepper
• 2 tablespoons bacon grease
• 2 tomatoes, chopped
• 1/4 cup chopped red onion
• 1/2 cup crumbled cotija cheese

Preparation

1. Preheat oven at 350 degrees.
2. Cover beans with plenty of water in sink or large bowl. Remove any beans that float, are split or are blackened. Remove any dried bits of chaff.
3. Drain beans and place in large heavy pot, preferably cast iron. Add 1 teaspoon salt and water to cover by 2 inches. Add chillies, onions, garlic and epazote, if using, and black pepper.
4. Bring to simmer over medium
5. high heat, then cover tightly and place in oven. Cook until beans are soft, about 2
6. 1/2 hours. Check after about 45 minutes to ensure there is enough water. Beans should not be soupy, but they should not dry out, either. (Recipe can be made to this point 2 to 3 days in advance.)
7. Melt bacon fat over medium
8. High heat in large skillet. Ladle beans into skillet, removing whole chillies and draining any excess liquid. Cook, stirring, until beans begin to bubble, about 2 minutes. Continue cooking, smashing half of the beans with back of spoon, until mixture thickens, about 5 minutes.
9. Remove from heat and season with additional salt and pepper, if needed.
10. Garnish with tomatoes, onion and cheese to serve.